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ST0055_1.1.json
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{
"templateType": "Occupational Standard",
"larsCode": 72,
"referenceNumber": "ST0055",
"title": "Bespoke cutter and tailor",
"status": "Approved for delivery",
"url": "https://instituteforapprenticeships.org/api/apprenticeshipstandards/ST0055",
"qualificationStandardUrl": null,
"versionNumber": "1.1",
"change": "Occupational standard, end-point assessment plan and funding band revised.",
"changedDate": "2023-10-18T00:00:00",
"earliestStartDate": "2023-10-18T00:00:00",
"latestStartDate": null,
"latestEndDate": null,
"overviewOfRole": "Producing tailored garments that are cut and made to a unique pattern for an individual.",
"level": 5,
"ePALength": 4,
"typicalDuration": 24,
"maxFunding": 17000,
"route": "Creative and design",
"keywords": [
"fashion",
"suit",
"trousers",
"couturier",
"shirt",
"tie",
"alterations",
"mender",
"theatre"
],
"jobRoles": [
"Bespoke cutter",
"Bespoke tailor"
],
"entryRequirements": "",
"assessmentPlanUrl": "https://instituteforapprenticeships.org/apprenticeship-standards/st0055-v1-1?view=epa",
"ssa1": "7 Retail and Commercial Enterprise",
"ssa2": "7.1 Retailing and wholesaling",
"version": "1.1",
"standardInformation": "<h3><strong>O</strong><strong>CCU</strong><strong>P</strong><strong>A</strong><strong>TION:</strong></h3>\n<p>Bespoke tailor and cutter                       </p>\n<p>Higher Apprenticeship: Level 5</p>\n<p>Bespoke tailors and cutters produce tailored garments that are cut and made to a unique pattern for an individual. Many of the skills are carried out by hand in order to produce a garment that fits precisely to a customer’s requirements. Bespoke tailoring forms the heart of the British menswear and womenswear industry and has an international and iconic reputation.</p>\n<p>Bespoke tailors and cutters have practical skills in bespoke garment manufacture and pattern construction. This Apprenticeship Standard is comprised of mandatory core skills and knowledge with a choice of specialising in either tailoring or cutting as a career path.</p>\n<p>The skills involved in bespoke tailoring cover a wide area of expertise that includes craft, technical, creative and design. These skills are fundamental to the bespoke tailoring industry and ultimately have to be employed with great precision, to high standards of excellence and within realistic time constraints.</p>\n<h4>CORE SKILLS &amp; KNOWLEDGE: TAILOR &amp; CUTTER </h4>\n<table border="0" style="width: 657px;">\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<th style="width: 119.266px;">WORK ASPECTS</th>\n<th style="width: 219.734px;">\n<p>SKILL</p>\n<p>A bespoke tailor or cutter will be able to:</p>\n</th>\n<th style="width: 258px;">\n<p>KNOWLEDGE &amp; UNDERSTANDING</p>\n<p>A bespoke tailor or cutter will know and understand</p>\n</th>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td style="width: 119.266px;">\n<p>Skills &amp; work practices</p>\n</td>\n<td style="width: 219.734px;">\n<ul>\n<li>Follow clear instructions from relevant colleagues precisely.</li>\n<li>Follow and maintain work procedures.</li>\n<li>Select, use and store equipment and materials for example correct storage of patterns, purchasing materials and stock control.</li>\n<li>Identify and minimise hazards and risks in the workplace through safe working practice.</li>\n<li>Make the most efficient and effective use of resources, time and materials.</li>\n<li>Develop good communication skills with all staff in the company.</li>\n</ul>\n</td>\n<td style="width: 258px;">\n<ul>\n<li>How to interpret instructions based on a customer’s requirements.</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n<li>Effective use of equipment and safe working methods.</li>\n<li>Bespoke terminology and its use in the workplace.</li>\n<li>The need for standards of workmanship to be achieved.</li>\n</ul>\n</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td style="width: 119.266px;">Materials</td>\n<td style="width: 219.734px;">\n<ul>\n<li>Prepare materials and trimmings.</li>\n<li>Be able to identify the origins of specific branded cloths used in the bespoke tailoring industry and use appropriately.</li>\n<li>Recognise faults in cloth and trimming.</li>\n</ul>\n</td>\n<td style="width: 258px;">\n<ul>\n<li>The characteristics of a variety of fabrics and their suitable application to construction.</li>\n<li>How heritage supports textile brands in the bespoke industry.</li>\n<li>How traditional manufactured cloth processes meet British and European standards and are fit for purpose.</li>\n</ul>\n</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td style="width: 119.266px;">Cultural heritage</td>\n<td style="width: 219.734px;">\n<ul>\n<li>Explore the history and heritage of Savile Row styling of bespoke garments in order to advise customers.</li>\n</ul>\n</td>\n<td style="width: 258px;">\n<ul>\n<li>The heritage and culture of bespoke and its relevance and influence on today’s luxury market.</li>\n</ul>\n</td>\n</tr>\n</tbody>\n</table>\n<h4>SPECIFIC SKILLS &amp; KNOWLEDGE: TAILOR</h4>\n<table border="0" style="width: 657px;">\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<th style="width: 119.266px;">WORK ASPECTS</th>\n<th style="width: 219.734px;">\n<p>SKILL</p>\n<p>A bespoke tailor will be able to:</p>\n</th>\n<th style="width: 258px;">\n<p>KNOWLEDGE &amp; UNDERSTANDING</p>\n<p>A bespoke tailor will know and understand</p>\n</th>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td style="width: 119.266px;">\n<p>Garment Construction</p>\n</td>\n<td style="width: 219.734px;">\n<ul>\n<li>Develop a good working relationship with the cutter in order to receive the cut and trimmed garment bundle.</li>\n<li>Be able to canvas a coat by hand and prepare garment for the first fitting baste.</li>\n<li>Disassemble a garment and amend construction as per cutters instructions</li>\n<li>Prepare garment for second customer  fitting having completed all alterations as instructed by the cutter.</li>\n</ul>\n</td>\n<td style="width: 258px;">\n<ul>\n<li>How to make bespoke coats (jackets) trousers, waistcoats and skirts.</li>\n<li>The fitting and reassembling instructions in order to support the company’s workflow procedures.</li>\n<li>How to baste these garments through the adjustments process to final finishing, pressing and completion</li>\n<li>How to maintain a flow of production ensuring quality standards that meet the customer specifications.</li>\n</ul>\n</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td style="width: 119.266px;">Finishing &amp; pressing</td>\n<td style="width: 219.734px;">\n<ul>\n<li>Complete the final alterations</li>\n<li>Hand make the buttonholes.</li>\n<li>Hand finish the garment inside and out.</li>\n<li>Press and prepare the garment for the final customer fitting</li>\n<li>Number and log each garment.</li>\n</ul>\n</td>\n<td style="width: 258px;">\n<ul>\n<li>The need for high standards of workmanship to be achieved.</li>\n<li>The balance between maintaining the quality of finish and the time and cost to the company.</li>\n</ul>\n</td>\n</tr>\n</tbody>\n</table>\n<h4>SPECIFIC SKILLS 7 KNOWLEDGE: CUTTER</h4>\n<table border="0" style="width: 657px;">\n<tbody>\n<tr style="height: 44px;">\n<th style="width: 119.266px; height: 44px;">WORK ASPECTS</th>\n<th style="width: 219.734px; height: 44px;">\n<p>SKILL</p>\n<p>A bespoke cutter will be able to:</p>\n</th>\n<th style="width: 258px; height: 44px;">\n<p>KNOWLEDGE &amp; UNDERSTANDING</p>\n<p>A bespoke cutter will know and understand</p>\n</th>\n</tr>\n<tr style="height: 247px;">\n<td style="width: 119.266px; height: 247px;">Work practices</td>\n<td style="width: 219.734px; height: 247px;">\n<ul>\n<li>Prepare materials and trimmings for the garment.</li>\n<li>Have overall responsibility for the outcome of the finished garment.</li>\n<li>Organise purchasing of materials and stock control.</li>\n</ul>\n</td>\n<td style="width: 258px; height: 247px;">\n<ul>\n<li>Cloth characteristics and their behaviour.</li>\n<li>The importance of developing a good working relationship with the tailor.</li>\n<li>The importance of timely workflow to the company.</li>\n<li>The principles of garment construction for a range of garments such as jackets, trousers, waistcoats and overcoats.</li>\n</ul>\n</td>\n</tr>\n<tr style="height: 247px;">\n<td style="width: 119.266px; height: 247px;">\n<p>Identifying and responding to customer requirements</p>\n</td>\n<td style="width: 219.734px; height: 247px;">\n<ul>\n<li>Liaise with the customer to ascertain their individual requirements.</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n<li>Measure the customer and analyse any figure variations that need to be addressed.</li>\n<li>Carry out a number of appropriate fittings.</li>\n</ul>\n</td>\n<td style="width: 258px; height: 247px;">\n<ul>\n<li>How to measure an individual customer in order to create their pattern.</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n<li>How different figure variations should be corrected.</li>\n<li>The need for customer satisfaction with a luxury garment.\n<p>Preparation of</p>\ncomponent garment parts</li>\n</ul>\n</td>\n</tr>\n<tr style="height: 164.625px;">\n<td style="width: 119.266px; height: 164.625px;">\n<p>Preparation of component garment parts</p>\n</td>\n<td style="width: 219.734px; height: 164.625px;">\n<ul>\n<li>Construct patterns.</li>\n<li>Lay out patterns, mark in cloth.</li>\n<li>Cut cloth and prepare bundle ready to give to the tailor.</li>\n</ul>\n</td>\n<td style="width: 258px; height: 164.625px;">\n<ul>\n<li>How to produce economical lays to company standards.</li>\n<li>The importance of correct ticketing and instructions.</li>\n</ul>\n</td>\n</tr>\n<tr style="height: 191px;">\n<td style="width: 119.266px; height: 191px;">\n<p>Communication skills</p>\n</td>\n<td style="width: 219.734px; height: 191px;">\n<ul>\n<li>Carry out effective bespoke selling and after care.</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n<li>Discuss and advise on style of garment and cloth selection for specific use.</li>\n<li>Work as part of a team within a company.</li>\n</ul>\n</td>\n<td style="width: 258px; height: 191px;">\n<ul>\n<li>Diplomacy and effective communication skills.</li>\n</ul>\n<ul>\n<li>The role of the cutter the interface between the customer and the tailor.</li>\n<li>A range of styles and fashion trends and suitability of style to individual customers.</li>\n</ul>\n</td>\n</tr>\n</tbody>\n</table>\n<h3><strong>B</strong><strong>ehaviours</strong></h3>\n<p>Bespoke tailors and cutters will be expected to demonstrate:</p>\n<ul>\n<li>Adherence to appropriate Health &amp; Safety procedures within the workplace.</li>\n<li>A commitment to maintaining high standards of precision and excellence as appropriate to the craft.</li>\n<li>A focus on the requirements of the customer.</li>\n<li>An ability to work effectively both individually and as part of a team.</li>\n<li>A strong work ethic and commitment in order to meet the standards required.</li>\n<li>A recognition and appreciation of equality and diversity in the workplace.</li>\n</ul>\n<h3><strong>E</strong><strong>ntry requirements</strong></h3>\n<p>Employers will set their own entry requirements but typically candidates will be proficient in complex stitching and making processes. Apprentices will need to achieve Level 2 English and Maths.</p>\n<h3><strong>D</strong><strong>uration</strong></h3>\n<p>Typically 2 years. The timescale may reduce if an apprentice can demonstrate sufficient practical skills on entry. This standard will be reviewed in 3 years.</p>",
"occupationalSummary": "<p>The UK has a well earned reputation as the home of bespoke tailoring with British tailors dressing everyone from royalty to rock stars across the world. Tailoring is an industry steeped in tradition and heritage. Bespoke garments are custom made and sustainable in nature - constructed to have longevity. Part of the ‘slow fashion’ approach - distinguished by quality garments, produced on a smaller scale and with slower production times.</p>\n<p>Bespoke cutters and tailors are qualified artisans who need to be precise, have an eye for detail, a technical approach, good communication skills and work to a high standard of excellence.</p>\n<p>A bespoke cutter is involved in liaising with clients to ascertain their individual requirements. They advise clients on the style, cloth and trim of their garment and have overall responsibility for the order. They construct the garment pattern and cut the components ready for assembly by the bespoke tailor. They also conduct fittings and record customer feedback as appropriate.</p>\n<p>The bespoke tailor is responsible for assembling the garment, preparing the garment for fittings, amending the garment construction, completing final alterations and hand finishing the garment.</p>\n<p>A bespoke tailor works closely with a bespoke cutter, as a team they create the tailored garment stage by stage, conducting fittings with the client along the way. </p>\n<p>Training to work as a skilled craftsperson is extremely demanding. There are many specialities within the trade from coat makers to cutters and hand finishers. </p>\n<p>Client relationship sits at the heart of this occupation and bespoke cutters and tailors will work with the client, through the complete bespoke tailoring process. </p>\n<p>Bespoke cutters and tailors are traditionally and ideally based in a workshop within a tailoring house. The workshop is often attached to a shop where the tailoring service materials and accessories are displayed and business and fittings take place. The workshops contain specialist equipment, mannequins and a cutting table. There are many tailoring houses across the UK and some offer a travelling tailor service, giving employees the opportunity to work abroad. </p>\n<p>In their daily work, a bespoke cutter would typically measure and analyse figure variations, carry out client fittings, construct garment patterns, lay, mark and cut cloth and organise and purchase materials. </p>\n<p>In their daily work, a bespoke tailor would typically baste and stitch garments, prepare garments for fittings, make alterations, press and part hand finish garments. </p>\n<p>This is an active role which requires bespoke cutters and tailors to be responsive to client and company needs. For example - prioritising workloads, working with varying materials and responding to client specification changes. </p>",
"knowledges": [
{
"knowledgeId": "cbd0392b-63f8-4e5a-b821-28ec0777a74c",
"detail": "Material manufacturing processes from raw material to finished product. How they meet British and international standards."
},
{
"knowledgeId": "510f1225-c4e7-4038-aa59-8757a41256da",
"detail": "Properties and characteristics of cloth."
},
{
"knowledgeId": "669503d2-ca60-450c-b8e3-13b345b183ef",
"detail": "Professional client relationship management. For example, liaising on suitability of cloth, materials and trimmings when agreeing specifications for bespoke garments."
},
{
"knowledgeId": "1a3bb614-a83f-407e-9d63-2485efd27c37",
"detail": "Properties and characteristics of trimmings. "
},
{
"knowledgeId": "21805cc3-6c53-4ab0-bea4-5329ac61c520",
"detail": "Data protection laws and confidentiality protocols for the setting and the impact on the role including social media policy. "
},
{
"knowledgeId": "805deb95-f382-4ad0-aa92-8ab627148ded",
"detail": "How to interpret figure and posture to produce a bespoke fit. "
},
{
"knowledgeId": "07937cd1-943b-4bfd-9b07-72f7853f7354",
"detail": "The range of bespoke individual styles and their suitability to clients. "
},
{
"knowledgeId": "7c73994c-7e0f-4457-84f3-e78ede63327e",
"detail": "Roles and responsibilities of the cutter and tailor. Agreed communication channels with the client."
},
{
"knowledgeId": "7738d353-38c7-4dff-bb91-649be2327824",
"detail": "Bespoke cutting and tailoring terminology."
},
{
"knowledgeId": "bc1b790c-5445-478c-aaac-d43874711180",
"detail": "Recognising defects in materials and the impact on the bespoke garment."
},
{
"knowledgeId": "31059ffd-cb4b-4e39-961a-ad7f52e9826d",
"detail": "Quality control throughout the bespoke process. "
},
{
"knowledgeId": "25584c3c-9ae6-4fd2-8444-0f7afc08dc5d",
"detail": "How to maintain and safely use tools, equipment and machinery."
},
{
"knowledgeId": "4c861c74-93b1-4300-9e2a-851dd92cfe34",
"detail": "The importance of timely workflow to meet the agreed specification."
},
{
"knowledgeId": "943a8463-34a5-4cd9-9dec-7fdaf0e09eaa",
"detail": "Efficient use of resources, time and materials."
},
{
"knowledgeId": "ba106058-7de7-42e8-b7d8-17f67f152108",
"detail": "Health and safety at work legislation. "
},
{
"knowledgeId": "e1a928ad-cc52-4c8e-adbb-74ca3185f3eb",
"detail": "How to handle and store bespoke cut components in the making process. "
},
{
"knowledgeId": "cc7ff090-487e-4f6a-be2d-295dfdebc119",
"detail": "How to handle and store finished bespoke garments. "
},
{
"knowledgeId": "eae35b79-e55a-45dc-ae25-7b3f86379f9d",
"detail": "Processes to log and number each bespoke garment and methods of tracking for example an order book or checklist."
},
{
"knowledgeId": "db182464-832a-43ba-9b7a-66006d002824",
"detail": "Quality assurance including formal recording methods for alterations to a bespoke garment."
},
{
"knowledgeId": "f704a526-2355-4228-915b-1d642771fe10",
"detail": "How to decide if an adjustment or repair is both sustainable and viable to a bespoke garment."
},
{
"knowledgeId": "74f449e5-b565-47da-8f35-aae156139d6f",
"detail": "The availability and cost of bespoke materials."
},
{
"knowledgeId": "94aa5af9-4548-43bf-91a1-53552a10d8ee",
"detail": "How to establish component costs. "
},
{
"knowledgeId": "a47fbf5c-873e-4729-b447-a53cd0b421fb",
"detail": "Costing of a bespoke garment. "
},
{
"knowledgeId": "b8e76701-2958-4b25-9a33-e00a48c277c3",
"detail": "How to measure a client and observe figure variations for the construction of a bespoke cutting pattern. "
},
{
"knowledgeId": "ed4b8408-001d-4e1a-8210-2849df46f0e7",
"detail": "How to organise purchasing of materials."
},
{
"knowledgeId": "820b0a45-ae4f-49e9-b6d2-6c37095fc853",
"detail": "Stock control methods such as taking inventories."
},
{
"knowledgeId": "962d332b-c0bf-4b8e-b4c9-7117e9515bf8",
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