come up with a --all-features equivalent

[zachschuermann]

After the introduction of disjoint arrow feature flags in #654, only arrow_53 or arrow_54 can be specific - never both, thereby breaking --all-features. We should come up with a way to nicely work around this and provide a similar --all-features experience which just defaults to some arrow version

[hntd187]

most things like tokio have a "full" feature, but they also don't bounce around versions of arrow like we have to.